- The many sights in and around Ninh Binh -- just an hour-and-a-half-ride south of Hanoi on Highway 1 -- are often visited as a day trip or with an overnight on a planned tour from Hanoi. Independent travelers arriving in Ninh Binh find themselves in a cluster of shops along busy Highway 1 with little in the way of good food and just one hotel that even passes muster.

- And, in fact, you"ll probably end up paying more to do the trip independently. I recommend taking a good, private tour to the area; just choose the sights that most interest you (you can"t really do them all in a day) and find a tour operator that makes the trip. Any of the tour operators in Hanoi will do. The exception to this, and the only place that really merits an overnight -- but for nature buffs only -- is Cuc Phuong National Park; if you visit Cuc Phuong on a day trip from Hanoi, you get there at the wrong time of day, when any wildlife is hiding out, so it"s worth an overnight. Otherwise, go with a tour.