Anlong Veng

Long a stronghold of the Khmer Rouge, Anlong Veng finally succumbs to government forces in 1998 and is now drawing visitors obsessed with Cambodia’s dark past. Attractions in this dusty, isolate town include military commander Ta Mok’s House, Pol Pot’s cremation site and other remark ably dull places catapulted to interesting by their connection with mass murderers.

Is a tale of two cities: the bustling dockside seen by hose traveling between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap by fast boat and the old colonial quarter with its pleasant parks and handsome buildings. Connecting these very different parts is a long causeways lined with stills houses and a maze of narrow walkways.

This temple complex is the biggest and best bunch of pre- Angkorian temples found anywhere in Cambodia. From early a 7th century Chenla-era capital called Ishanapura, the main complex includes Prasat Sambor, with its large lingam around the central tower. Prasat Tao, with its elegantly coiffure lion statues, and Prasat Yeay Peau, with a solitary, immense tree slowly strangling the eastern gateway. There is a special serenity here in the forest and far fewer visitors make it than to the later, rather more famous capital of Angkor.

Tbeng Meanchey is a seriously out of the way provincial capital and this has kept visitors to a minimum. Locals refer to the town as preach Vihear, a fact that has confounded many a foreigner attempting the arduous overland journey to Prasat Preah Vihear, the famous temple 100km further north.

If Preah Vihear province is remote, then Preah Khan is the back of beyond. Looters sewpt through the complex like an army of ants in the late 90s and the devastation wrought makes this a temple only for the faithful who relish the challenge of getting here.
This was the largest enclosure constructed during the Angkor period,, and there are stacks of structures in the area, but the most rewarding are the four faces, Bayon-style, of Prasat Preah Thkol, overwhelmed by creepers and the delicate elephants of Prasat Damrei a few km east of the main complex on a small hillock.
Adventurous types might brave sleepin at the temple, but the guads don’t like this, plus the malarial mosquitoes just love it. The best bet is to stay with one of the friendly families living at the crossroads in downtown Ta Seng, the nearest village 4km away. Expect to pay about 10,000 person with a basic meal.

 Running out of polite definitions of remote Koh Ker is the arise end of nowhere, a brief 10th century capital of the Angkorrian empire, constructed by the super king Jayavarman V. He went on a wild building spree to consolidate his rule, leaving as many as 30 structures today, including immense Prasat Thom, a seven-tier pyramid with fine views from its 40m-summit and pinkish Prasat Krahom, the Red Temple. The temple area was demitted in 2002.
 There’s nowhere to stay at the temples but it could be possible to crash at the tiny settlement of Koh Ker about 1km way. Most visitors prefer to bed down in the village of Siyong, about 9km southeast. Villagers can knock together a basic meal and beers and water are on sale.

There is nothing screaming “stop” in Sisophon, but some travelers stuck here a night when traveling overland from Thailand in the west season. Known as Svay by locals, it’s also the base for a trip to the huge temple complex of Banteay Chhmar.

Vast and remote, Banteay Chhmar, meaning Narrow Forests, was yet another massive temple complex constructed by Cambodia’s most prolific Builder, Jayavarman VII. Unique to Banteay Chhmar was a sequence of eight muilti-armed Avalokitesvaras adorning an outer gallery, but six of these were hacked up and trucked into Thailand in a brazen act of looting in 1998.
  Nearby Banteay Top is only a small  temple, but there is something special about its atmosphere. Set among the rice fields, one of the damaged towers looks to have been partially rebuilt and appears decidedly precarious, a bony finger pointing skyward.